Do you enjoy Korean food? If so, I highly recommend visiting "전라도"(Jeolla Province), a region in Korea famous for its rich and diverse food culture. You’ll find many delicious dishes there that are hard to come by in other parts of the country.
Among Jeolla’s unique foods, one stands out for its incredibly strong and distinctive taste: "홍어"(hongeo, fermented skate). This fish, mainly caught around Heuksan Island(흑산도) in South Jeolla Province, is known for its pungent smell and fermented flavor, which even many Koreans struggle to handle. In fact, I used to avoid it completely until I grew older and finally learned to appreciate its taste. Today, I’d like to share more about this unforgettable dish—hongeo.
The Origin of Hongeo
Hongeo is a special product of South Jeolla Province, and for generations, it has been an important part of local cuisine.
Most fish spoil quickly, so they are typically salted or dried to preserve them. But hongeo is unique in that it doesn’t spoil—it ferments, thanks to a chemical process that occurs in its skin. The fish’s skin contains urea, which breaks down into ammonia after death, producing a fermentation process that kills off harmful bacteria. This allows hongeo to be stored and transported for long periods without rotting.
The people of Jeolla discovered how to make the most of hongeo’s unique characteristics by developing dishes using "삼합" (samhap, three-harmonized foods), where fermented hongeo became a key ingredient in important events like celebrations and ancestral rites.
The Taste and Smell of Hongeo
For first-timers, hongeo’s strong smell can be overwhelming. The fermented fish emits a potent ammonia odor, and many people are taken aback when they first encounter it.
In my case, both of my grandparents were from Jeolla Province, so hongeo was often served at family gatherings during holidays. As a child, I couldn't stand going near it. But when I turned 20, something changed, and I decided to give it a try during one Chuseok celebration. The moment I bit into my first piece of hongeo, I felt a sharp ammonia sensation clear out my sinuses. Surprisingly, I found the experience exciting, and from that moment, I developed a fondness for it.
Foods That Pair Well with Hongeo
Hongeo is rarely eaten on its own. It’s often served with complementary dishes to balance its strong flavor.
The most famous pairing is called "홍어삼합"(hongeo samhap), where hongeo is eaten with boiled pork belly (수육) and aged kimchi (묵은지). These three ingredients come together to form a perfect harmony—the richness of the pork and the tangy flavor of the kimchi help to mellow out hongeo’s strong aroma, creating a delicious blend of flavors.
Another classic pairing is hongeo with makgeolli, a traditional Korean rice wine. This combination is known as "홍탁"(hongtak). When eaten with makgeolli, the sharpness of hongeo’s taste and smell is softened, allowing you to fully appreciate the unique flavors of Jeolla’s traditional food culture.
Tips for Enjoying Hongeo
Due to its strong flavor and smell, hongeo can be difficult for first-timers to enjoy. However, if you take small bites and slowly get used to the taste, you may start to appreciate its unique charm. When eating hongeo samhap, try experimenting with different proportions of hongeo, pork, and kimchi to find the perfect balance that works for you.
Additionally, the level of fermentation greatly affects the flavor of hongeo. If the fish is too fermented, the smell can become overpowering. So for beginners, it’s best to start with a moderately fermented version to ease into the experience.
➤ Hongeo is a distinctive fermented dish from Jeolla Province, known for its intense flavor and smell. Although it may be a challenge at first, once you acquire a taste for it, hongeo’s appeal is hard to forget. Whether it’s enjoyed as part of hongeo samhap or paired with makgeolli, this dish is a prime example of the depth and richness of Korean food culture.
If you’re looking to dive deeper into traditional Korean cuisine, trying hongeo at least once is an experience you won’t want to miss. Why not explore the unique flavors of Jeolla Province by giving hongeo a try? You might just discover a new favorite!
